At this point, I eat very little industrial food, but I do still eat it, primarily out at restaurants, but also at home, especially condiments like ketchup, mayonnaise, mustard, and also canned beans and the occasional box of brownie mix, etc. However, it seems that enough might finally be enough — E. Coli 0157 has shown up in cookie dough, sickening 65 people. How does E. Coli 0157, which lives in the intestines of heavily grain fed cows, end up not only in a cookie factory, but inside the cookie dough? How messed up must the system be for such a thing to happen?
The article states that “President Obama has identified food safety as a priority,” but it is already clear in the few public statements that I have seen that he is not serious. In a recent post I mentioned that myopia and tunnel vision are endemic in American politics, and Obama is no different. He can see only five feet in front of his face and within the margins of industrial capitalism. Food safety, yes, but without substantially compromising the profitability of our industrial behemoths (according to the numbers in the article, at any given time, there are over 600,000 cases of refrigerated cookie dough products out there), and without increasing the cost of American food. American food is cheap and must remain cheap.
The prevailing myth of the local foods movement is that all food was local until after World War II. I am not sure how this myth became so entrenched considering, for example, the popularity of Upton Sinclair’s book The Jungle, which, incidentally is a socialist critique of American capitalism; the “muckraking” exposure of the vile practices of industrial meat packing companies was incidental to the socialist critique. It is clear that already in 1906, meat, at least the meat eaten in cities, was not local. (Meat packer Gustavus Swift had functional refrigerated rail cars in service in 1880, and within just six years of their appearance the percentage of live cattle shipped from Chicago to New York declined by nearly thirty percent, while the percentage of dressed cattle increased by over twenty five times [Wikipedia]. Before that, the Erie Canal eviscerated local New York farm economies, and before that cheap foodstuffs raised in the English colonies in the New World and shipped across the Atlantic undermined local English and other European farmers) The answer of local advocates, therefore, is a return to a pre-World War II local model. As evidenced by the Chicago packing industry, however, such a thing never existed. The answer, then, is something entirely new, a loosely connected web of comprehensive, including production, processing, and distribution, local-regional farm and food systems. If, however, such a thing is not even on the radar of the most ardent advocates of local-regional food, it is not even within the universe of possibility in American politics.
Sincere or not, Michelle Obama’s organic garden is a gimmick. Home gardens are not viewed by American politicians as a serious alternative to industrial vegetables and fruit, in spite of, or, more likely, because of the fact that at the height of the Victory Garden era, 40% of American produce was grown in private gardens. Organic vegetable gardens like Michelle Obama’s do not promote economic growth. In fact, they do the opposite. If 40% of American produce were grown in private gardens, the California farm economy and the fresh produce import market would collapse.
The food safety efforts of American politicians, including of politicians who make food safety a “priority,” are, even at their most energetic, geared towards only treating the symptoms of the disease of rampant industrial capitalism. This will not change any time soon. (One way to help it change would be to get private money out of American politics)
What then, is a person to do? It seems to me that there is only thing to do, opt out, quit the industrial food system altogether. This is a tall order — I am an American, which means I like ketchup, and not just that I like ketchup, I like industrial ketchup; homemade ketchup just makes me miss my Heinz ketchup. In other words, there is a tremendous amount of cultural work to do. Nevertheless, it is pretty clear that it is time to do that work. I don’t know if I will be able to do it; I am pretty apathetic, after all. But, I am going to try. I’ve already got the meat taken care of, and for most of the year the vegetables and fruit, and I pretty much only drink water and coffee. I just need to trim away the industrial accoutrements — the condiments, the snacks, etc.
When a pathogenic bacterium that lives only in the guts of heavily grain fed cows (and other ruminants) ends up in refrigerated cookie dough, it is time to get the hell out of Dodge.